I Am The Seeker Get yourself slayed by the female masters of music

Lately, I’ve been thinking about what I believe Bob Dylan called being a musical expeditionist. About the pavers and the lighters of the way forward. About the unsung, the masters that may have slipped through the cracks of popular culture. About being a seeker. And how, it’s all too damn easy for kids today, all the hunting is done for them. And it made me feel kinda sorry for ’em. Because what was once hard to find, obscure, difficult music is found today on a ‘tastemaker’ playlist.

But if it’s all at your fingertips, where’s the thrill of the hunt, the joy of the lucky find, the lifelong indebtedness for the introduction, that weird pride and sense of ownership that accompanies uncovering some mysterious wild magical sounds, known only to the secret few? Let alone the accompanying artwork… the liner notes… the obsessive studying of who played what on what record…

It’s great to see all these mini musical encyclopaedias, 16-year-olds digging on Can or the complete unreleased rehearsal tapes of the Velvet Underground, along with in-depth knowledge of who said what to whom during the recording of the seminal blah blah… but if having easy access to that once difficult-to-find stuff is simply normal, I have to wonder if this stuff loses its secret magic, its untouchable hard sought-after quality.

Is there something to be said for dedicating oneself to digging deep? The doco No Direction Home reveals that whilst young Bob Dylan was still in the process of self-creation, he was known for stealing his friends and mentors’ obscurest, most prized records – a theft he believed was necessary for his artistic growth, for his immersion technique. This technique involved listening to the recordings of his chosen masters over and over until they lived inside him, and their knowledge was his.

I decided early to dedicate myself to this method of self-education. My chosen masters were artists who offered an invitation into a world of their own making, creators of their own destiny. As the one and only Australian artist Dave Graney so beautifully puts it, I dig the pioneers.

As a young girl I discovered many of the female artists that I’m still inspired by today because they had amazing album covers with fabulous hairdos and long flowy or super short dresses with mismatched boots and clever or evocative titles (like Country Gold, Fist City, Tammy’s Touch), which was always enough to get me in (I’m shallow like that).

Country vinyl was also the cheapest in the bargain bins at the cool record stores, or the markets and the junk shops. And that’s how and why I started building my treasured collection of Dolly, Loretta, Tammy, Tanya, Jeannie C, Wanda, Sammi Smith records – and from liner notes learning more about who was who, watching out for particular songwriters who would appear often (I’m still obsessed with finding out about Lola Jean Dillon – anyone?), about who discovered/mentored who, discovering Conway Twitty and George Jones and Porter Wagoner from their duets with the ladies I loved. All the fascinating info I held in my head came from album covers. I spent hours transcribing lyrics and singing along.

A grid of six classic country music album covers

I was fourteen when my disco loving big brother bestowed a copy of Betty Davis’s record They Say I’m Different on me, and it was as though the world suddenly lit up and I knew my own possibilities were endless. Hey Lo, I reckon you’ll really like this record.

Good God! The young woman who adorned the cover wielding perspex rods on her knees in a funkadelic space suit simply blew my mind. And I wasn’t the only one – young Betty not only married Miles Davis in the late 1960s but was responsible for introducing him to her up-and-coming guitarist buddy Jimi Hendrix, which lit the fire under Miles’s ass that inspired him to head down a whole new direction with Bitches Brew – thus inventing jazz fusion. Thanks Betty!

But much more importantly to me, she wrote and produced her own albums – three of ’em – albums that sounded like nothing had ever sounded before. A rare feat indeed. She was an auteur of song. She was the sole proprietress of her own foxy, down and dirty sound, with incredibly groundbreaking songs like ‘He Was A Big Freak’, ‘If I’m In Luck I Just Might Get Picked Up’ and ‘Anti Love Song’. Miles Davis said in his autobiography “If Betty were singing today she would be something like Madonna, something like Prince…”

Betty was truly a musical expeditionist and you could hear it pay off in the genre-defying sounds she created. In ‘They Say I’m Different’ Betty sings about discovering Chuck Berry when she was sweet 16. About Lightning Hopkins, Bo Diddley, Big Mama Thornton, Leadbelly – about how her heritage is what made her who she is and that’s why she’s different, why she’s strange.

This moved me. I was hooked. I discovered that young Betty Mabry was a hit songwriter for acts such as the Chamber Brothers and The Commodores, a top model, a nightclub entrepreneur. That Jimi wrote ‘Foxy Lady’ for her. That apparently not a single minute of video footage of this remarkable performer exists, despite her few live concerts being described as outrageous, incendiary events, half the time getting closed down by religious groups protesting her ‘obscene’ lyrics. That Betty made her own stage costumes.That Betty finally decided the world wasn’t ready for her, after three albums that didn’t sell, and simply retired, leaving a tiny but ever growing legion of helpless, obsessive devotees in her wake, waiting breathlessly for a whispered-about mythical lost album to emerge.

Album cover of Betty Davis's 'They Say I'm Different'

‘They Say I’m Different’ is Betty Davis’s second studio album, written and produced by herself.

This patchwork of facts, the deliciously torturously slow gleaning of snippets of information was gathered over years from various unreliable sources, with each new fragment of information accompanied by a flicker of excitement. The lack of available information made me hungry for it. My Betty records were my prized possessions, and gazing at those album covers provided a portal into another world. If I ever happened across someone else who knew who she was, it was like we were instant soulmates, bonded by a love of the Queen of Foxiness. I called my first album Born Funky Born Free, which I recorded in my bedroom, as some kind of homage to Betty, and wrote a song from her imagined point of view called ‘My Friends Call Me Foxy’. Performing that song always makes me stand up a little straighter.

That lost album, Is It Love Or Desire?, has since been found, and it is, of course, amazing. Columbia have also put out a collection of unreleased tracks, and a Betty documentary should be hitting screens soon. I am still waiting with bated breath. I still get tingles when I get a new insight to who she was – via a snippet of studio dialogue on these new recordings that have finally seen the light of day in the digital era, or from the extensive, lovingly researched liner notes.

 

My brother’s gift of Betty Davis really encouraged me to search out the unknown, the pioneers, those that ran their own race, often without anyone cheering them on from the sidelines. It reassured me that those that flew their own freak flag were often those with the greatest gifts to offer the world, that popularity has never been a measure of talent and that as an artist it’s important to create whatever you damn well want and try not to let it break your heart if it takes an audience thirty years to hear you. Music has to be its own reward.

Digging deep to create one’s own musical journey rather than being spoon-fed what’s ‘cool’, what’s ‘underground’, who’s ‘influential’, is what serves as a true propulsion to musical invention and appreciation. In this bowerbird era of homogenized idolatry it can be hard to determine the genuine from the contrived. Regurgitation from reinvention. Today’s foxiness sometimes seems mere pastiche, learned, perfected, smoothed out. It does not move me the same way.

The endemic hypocritical nature of youth culture that can sport images of Che Guevara on T-shirts – yet live in an era that is terrified of terrorism is blatantly apparent. Revolution is now called terrorism. Doesn’t have quite the same ring to it. Music should shake you to your core, slay you somehow. It should fill the holes in your soul. It should take you places you never imagined and then take you higher – and then hold your hand in the dark when no one else will.

Seek your own masters and let ’em kill you…

 

Lo Carmen is a musician and actor. Her latest album is Lovers Dreamers Fighters. Below is a playlist Lo prepared to accompany this feature.

The Post Democracy can die in the dark

“The way they lied, those days have to be over.” It’s clear that Steven Spielberg intends the words of Tom Hanks to ring out from the 1971 newspaper setting of his latest film, The Post, to today’s fraught political landscape.

The parallels are blue-sky clear: as a historical story of governmental lies and persistent journalistic integrity, the film is a moral parable for the present day. But a murkier political reality lurks just below Spielberg’s intentions.

A dramatisation of the Pentagon Papers scandal, The Post sees Spielberg developing the preferred mode of his later era – talky, smart blockbusters for grown-ups, washed with uneasy American idealism and glossed with patriotism.

Those who discount Spielberg as the dad of multiplex moviegoing do so at their own hazard. Sure, he may be the world’s highest grossing director at the global box office, but this isn’t empty populism, rather, its popular cinema at its prime.

Well, not quite. Just two years ago, Bridge of Spies marked Spielberg’s pinnacle of intelligent mass entertainment. After the dialogue-driven Lincoln (2012), yet another excursion into US political history, Bridge of Spies was an action-inflected tale in the dead of the Cold War, with Hanks playing another idealist working to save his country – and a KGB agent – from the Red-menace mania. From its first to its final frames, it was taut and thrilling and morally alert.

As a neat companion piece to Bridge of Spies, The Post keeps Spielberg far outside the blockbuster cycle of his early days – the pure genre works of Indiana Jones, of Jaws and Jurassic Park and E.T. the Extra Terrestrial and Close Encounters of the Third Kind. Those films were all stories of childhood heroes, boyhood dreams and family cohesion. The Post retains their commercial sensibility – particularly in the opening sequence in the thick of the Vietnamese jungle designed to acknowledge the sacrifices of American soldiers – relaxing the relentless action beats for a genre-tinted, office-set journalism drama of heroes and villains.

Here, Spielberg’s heroes are whistleblowers and soldiers, journalists and publishers, most prominently, Kay Graham, owner-publisher of the Washington Post. The villain, a silhouetted Richard Nixon, haunts the film’s final sequence in an uncharacteristically (for Spielberg) pessimistic epilogue.

 

Tom Hanks (Ben Bradlee), David Cross (Howard Simons), John Rue (Gene Patterson), Bob Odenkirk (Ben Bagdikian), Jessie Mueller (Judith Martin), and Philip Casnoff (Chalmers Roberts).

Tom Hanks (Ben Bradlee), David Cross (Howard Simons), John Rue (Gene Patterson), Bob Odenkirk (Ben Bagdikian), Jessie Mueller (Judith Martin), and Philip Casnoff (Chalmers Roberts). Photo Credit: Niko Tavernise.

Patronised as a “little local paper” and tainted by its reputation for cosily serving governmental interests, the Post was steadily transformed by Katherine ‘Kay’ Graham into an organ of national prominence and investigative reporting across the 1960s. Graham had stepped into the role after the suicide of her husband, Philip Graham. By 1971 both she and her “cash-poor” paper were ready for a very different challenge.

Played by Meryl Streep with a patrician north-east accent and doubtful eyes, Graham was confronted with a steep choice: whether to publish reports on a set of Vietnam War taskforce papers from the Department of Defense. Leaked by former military analyst Daniel Ellsberg, the papers marked a grave security breach, comprising highly classified revelations that the US knew it couldn’t win the war as early as 1965 and had contravened the Geneva Convention.

Spielberg’s favoured moral-compass protagonist, Tom Hanks, is Ben Bradlee, The Washington Post’s legendary editor. In a recent interview Hanks himself described the Pentagon Papers not so much as a single bombshell, but “a collective weight of ongoing knowledge or testimony that the Vietnam War was unwinnable.” Beyond that, they revealed three decades of US prying and planning before the war, including an effort in 1954 to obstruct Vietnamese elections.

The slow zoom of the light on the photocopier, beaming across Ellsberg’s face in grotesque close-up and burning up the room as he copies reams of shadowy documents, tells us this is a treasonable action. The New York Times comes to publish the very first set of leaks, only to be censored by a federal court injunction initiated by the Nixon administration. It was the first time a newspaper had been banned from publishing in the United States’ history.

Matthew Rhys portrays Daniel Ellsberg as a conscience-charged isolate after what he has seen in Vietnam and then in the duplicitous company of Secretary of Defence, Robert McNamara. Ellsberg can’t surrender to lies. He insists that “if the public ever saw these papers they’d turn against the war,” asking Post journalist Ben Bagdikian (TV comic Bob Odenkirk), “Wouldn’t you go to prison to stop this war?”

The question goes from abstract to concrete quickly, as the Nixon government argues that publication of the rest of the papers would violate the espionage act. A cowardly Post board member warns that, should it publish the leaks, “The Washington Post will cease to exist.”

Hanks’ Bradlee is unswerving: “If the government tells us what we can and can’t publish, then the Washington Post has already ceased to exist.” In scenes like this, Spielberg’s own outrage is palpable. As usual, Hanks personifies the liberal American conscience, his heroic morality underlined by staunch nationalism.

That’s where the film’s most fascinating and most contradictory element comes into play. It’s easy enough to spot the contemporary comparisons that Spielberg is nudging us toward – the ruptures in the journalism industry today, the transition from print to digital, the fake news, the way that leaks and whistleblowing, from Julian Assange to Chelsea Manning, have become a standard disruption of the news cycle, the intrusion of social media in pushing a twenty-four-seven windstorm. All of these things have normalised the now unending stream of US Presidential scandal.

 

Ben Bradlee (Tom Hanks) and Kay Graham (Meryl Streep) sit opposite each other in a smokey restaurant.

‘The Post’ mainly comprises scenes in which people talk to each other in offices and smokey dining rooms – but Spielberg makes these indoor sequences dynamic, film noirish, anxiously paranoid. Photo Credit: Niko Tavernise.

The Pentagon Papers were pre-Watergate, and in a neat postscript, Spielberg finishes with the raid of the Democratic National Committee offices, showing how Ellsberg’s whistleblowing and Graham’s bravery as a publisher coincided with a new era of governmental creeping. Many critics have commented on these parallels – and kudos to Spielberg that he knows that the political context of now creates those resemblances, without dogmatically spelling them out.

But the more interesting thing is Spielberg’s blindspot. As a liberal American filmmaker, he sees these kinds of intrusions as anti-patriotic exceptions rather than the tendency of how the US governs – dishonestly, creepily, self-servingly. The Post positions government reactions to the Pentagon Papers and Watergate as instances of anti-Americanism. But much of the world sees it as the very definition of American leadership and operation – as part of a pattern of lying, covering up, meddling and moving on. That paradox is at the weird, ultra-American heart of The Post.

The narrowness of the film’s thesis – that the Vietnam War should not have been fought because it was unwinnable, not because it was essentially wrong to defy another country’s self-determination and slaughter its people through violent invasion – is similarly odd and myopic.

The general air of triumphalism, that sense that, in the US, democracy inevitably wins out – one character refers to the US unironically as “the Republic” – isn’t the only aspect of the film that rings a little false. At his worst, Spielberg is a sentimental filmmaker, unable to direct moments of emotion with nuance. He has publicly discussed his Aspergers diagnosis, and there is something of the outsider and the mimic in the unmodulated way he renders emotional scenes – as Graham’s relief turns to joy, John Williams’ piano and strings tinkle mushily.

Still, it’s to his credit that Spielberg fleshes out what the revelations of these papers meant for the US at the time. So often in these sorts of thriller-ish dramas, the trigger for the action is a red herring. But Spielberg skillfully interlaces archival footage to animate the Pentagon Papers’ evidence that a cascade of political leaders – Presidents Eisenhower, Kennedy (“The United States, as everyone knows, will not start a war”) and Lyndon Baines Johnson – had been lying about Vietnam to the public and congress for thirty years and still sent American boys into a pointlessly perilous situation, just to avoid humiliation. (Australia’s own Prime Minister, Harold Holt, committed us deeper into the Vietnam War with his affirmation, “all the way with LBJ”.)

 

As a journalism-meets-spy film, The Post mainly comprises scenes in which people talk to each other in offices and smokey dining rooms. But these indoor sequences are made dynamic with handheld cameras and shots that track us across the horizontal grid of newsroom fluorescent lights (familiar to us from that other titan of the journalism film, All The President’s Men), and upward from floor to ceiling. There are film noir-ish scenes of paranoia, in which the camera circles a gloriously kaftanned Streep from above while she’s on the phone, trapped in indecision during the film’s middle sequences, as well as shots of diagonally-cut architecture reminiscent of one of the great films of 1970s political anxiety, The Parallax View.

Other moments of abstraction leap out from the blue-tinted office backdrop: on a New York street corner, when Bradlee and his staff seize on the first, fateful Pentagon Papers leak published in the Times, the camera lingers as the wind whips their hair and ties into the blustering air, and they grasp the newspapers thrown into shock. These rich visions of metaphorical, political chaos were all but absent from the last big journalism film, Spotlight (2015), also scripted by The Post’s Liz Hannah and Josh Singer, but less imaginatively directed.

 

Ben Bradlee and two other newspapermen in front of a paper stand on the street, holding a copy of the New York Times.

Rich visions of metaphorical, political chaos. Photo Credit: Niko Tavernise.

For her part, Streep embodies Graham as a torn, under-confident woman, anxious but eventually resolute. “She felt alone in that decision” to publish, said Streep recently. There’s a gender critique here that’s very of-the-moment, and not typically Spielbergian – as a woman in a man’s world, Graham is spoken over, coddled, undermined (she has her seat pushed in for her by a colleague at a business meeting, is pushed past by a board member) but she comes to model a different kind of leadership – collaborative, considered, enquiring, open to feedback and changing course.

The Post is a film that’s deeply nostalgic for print. It speaks from one moment of rupture in the media industry, to another moment today. Freedom of the press versus governmental secrecy – whether the press serves the governed or the government – is its core moral story.

Hanks spoke recently about how he first read the script in October 2016, a time when he thought the next president would be woman. That unerring faith in US politics as following a self-correcting, ever-progressive trajectory is at the centre of The Post’s belief system. That the film failed to realise that a new US president could initiate his own ongoing siege on the free and independent press, that it was made in one era and released in another, is both the biggest failing of its liberal Hollywood politics, and its most intriguing facet.

A Bird and a Tree How the ibis are conquering Sydney

Everyone in Sydney knows that bird called the white ibis, Threskiornis molucca, whether at a distance or nearby. Some Sydneysiders have them living in their gardens. The ibis may be derided as the bin chicken, yet it has been one of the great success stories of our city: forty years ago hardly anyone here had seen an ibis.

There were ibises around Port Jackson when the First Fleet sailed in through the Heads, but the common afternoon occupation of some ‘gentlemen’ was shooting, and ibises – highly visible, shootable, edible, though not particularly delectable – were an easy target.

Despite what the Department of the Environment website may say about droughts and the Macquarie Marshes – hundreds of kilometres over the ranges – the present population of white ibis in Sydney originated at Taronga Park Zoo in the late 1970s, when an imaginative keeper decided to breed up a small flock of ibises outside the aviaries.

These birds made a strong impression on me, a keen amateur ornithologist, and I remember seeing them a few years later when they had made their way across the harbour to the Botanic Gardens. But the big breakthrough for the ibis happened in the ’80s when they moved into Centennial Park.

There they found small lakes with islands where they could breed free of harassment by cats or foxes. If you look back at the famous Australian birds books by Neville Cayley in 1931 or Graham Pizzey in 1972 you’ll see that ibises in those days nested on flattened shrubbery in swamps. In the 1980s the ibises learned to build nests in the tops of the Canary Island palm, Phoenix canariensis.

This tree was brought to Sydney as seeds or seedlings by the early fleets of the penal colony, the ships having stopped over in the Canary Islands on the voyage. When Centennial Park was laid out in the 1880s, hundreds of these palm trees – widely admired by Sydney people – were included in the design. About a hundred years later the trees in the park were ten metres tall, or more, and there were thousands more around Sydney. They turned out to be the perfect launching pad for an ibis invasion.

Those of us who take an interest in such things could see that there was something going on: these birds were on the move. In a few years they nested in more and more of the Canary Island palms, stretching out into the suburbs along the waterways.

Since then, they have learned to live in willow trees in Duck River at Clyde in the midst of a flying fox colony (free food, if you like batshit), and in peppercorn trees at Lidcombe next to a stormwater channel. They live as far west as Rooty Hill, adjacent to one of the most beautiful Australian Rules football ovals, and there are now many colonies across greater Sydney.

The white ibis has moved into, and out of, that palm tree. Perhaps they can adapt as well as we can, or perhaps better. Yet many people hate the very sight of them. That was not how people felt about them in ancient Egypt, where Thoth was one of the major deities. He was the inventor of writing, the founder of all science, religion and magic. In countless artworks Thoth is portrayed as a man with an ibis’s head. In some stories it was claimed that he created himself at the beginning of time and then laid an egg that contained the whole world. He was seen as the wisest of the wise, and was regarded as the fairest of judges, though his wrath was to be feared. The Egyptians mummified and buried thousands of ibises as a tribute to Thoth. This bird was for many years not called the white ibis but was known as the sacred ibis.

Few, if any, nowadays regard the ibis as sacred – though like all native birds they are protected by law. And in recent years scientists have tagged many birds or placed bands around their legs in order to study their movements. In October 2017 the public was invited to help with the research by recording the numbers and locations, as well as details of tags and bands – if you were brave enough to get up close. It was recommended that you approached the birds as they fed on the lawns at your local park, rather than trying to climb a palm tree, which would have been rather reckless and stupid.

Creating a City That Never Sleeps Sydney needs a ‘night mayor’, not lockout laws, to guide its future

“There were too many people on the footpath. There was too much banging of shoulders and bloodiness, and unpleasantness, and there wasn’t any transport to allow people to get home. So, then Barry [O’Farrell; former Premier] just comes in with this sledgehammer introducing these lockout laws, which was devastating,” said Sydney’s Lord Mayor Clover Moore.

She blames state governments “in the thrall of big liquor” for “giving lifetime licences to some venues in Kings Cross”. “That was one of the reasons why we had so many people in just the one area.”

Moore spoke in November at the opening of the Global Cities After Dark Forum, addressing over 200 artists, marketers, PR consultants, drug and urban night researchers, a variety of suits and top-knotted night-promoters. They had gathered to hear what Sydney might learn from how other cities have transformed their nights.

The main attraction and co-curator of the forum was Mirik Milan, a 37-year-old former club promoter, and currently the official ‘night mayor’ of Amsterdam. Also featured were Lutz Leichsenring from Berlin and Kate Becker from Seattle.

Mirik Milan told NEIGHBOURHOOD that Amsterdam’s first night mayor came in 2003 – along with a fight to get acknowledgement for the value that subculture and nightlife brought to the city. He describes his team now as, “independent, not for profit. We’re not a lobby group or activists, or an association group for companies. We really want to bridge the gap between the mayor, city councillors, small businesses, nightclubs, and also city residents.”

Milan is part of a global trend that sees bottom-up collective action taking responsibility for shaping the 24-hour cities it wants to create. Many of this movement’s luminaries argue politicians don’t understand the night economy; they don’t work in it, and don’t get its complexity.

If the people that do work in the night economy – taxi drivers, waiters, chefs, DJs, promoters – are the best placed to understand it, is it time they had their own voice?

 

The City of Sydney precinct covers 26 square kilometres and has 224,000 residents with a medium age of 32. It also has the country’s largest night-economy, turning over $3.6 billion annually from the 4,680 businesses that generate over 32,000 jobs. That’s 176 businesses per square kilometre. Melbourne has 65.

In the year following the 2014 lockout laws, even though violence had been trending down for some time, there was still a marked 45 per cent decrease in alcohol-related violence in Kings Cross.

There was also a 22 per cent decrease in the Sydney entertainment precinct, an area that stretches from Haymarket to the Rocks, and from Darling Harbour to Darlinghurst and Woolloomooloo.

Comparing the two years prior to the lockout laws with the two years following shows serious facial injuries have fallen at St Vincent’s Hospital in Darlinghurst by 65 per cent. There also hasn’t been a single death in its ICU from alcohol-related assault.

But in the wake of the lockout laws, 44 drink-led businesses went under with 140 jobs.

Though statistics indicate no measurable change, anecdotal reports persistently paint Newtown of a weekend as rougher, drunker and wilder, one suburb’s problems moved on to another, the new Kings Cross.

 

Mirik Milan explained to NEIGHBOURHOOD how as Amsterdam’s night mayor he countered binge-drinking by banning ‘happy hours’, preventing operators selling more alcohol in a shorter space of time. Instead of ‘naming and shaming’ bad promoters, they began ‘naming and faming’ clubs that were inclusive and non-discriminatory.

The city also offered 24-hour licences that venue operators could pitch for. But there were rules. Venues had to be outside the city centre and had to be multi-use, offering a restaurant, bar, theatre and gallery, as well as a club. One of those, the now very popular De School is always sold out.

Milan says spreading people out stopped thousands of punters suddenly being pushed into city streets at closing time, with potential for violence and noise. “Now, 4 or 5 years down the line we see a 25 per cent decline of alcohol related violence in the city centre, and a 30 per cent decline of nuisance of any sort, in a district which you can compare to Kings Cross.”

Night mayors have now popped up in Paris and Zurich. In the wake of 40 per cent of London’s music venues closing down over the last decade, that city now has a ‘Night Czar’. New York City Council recently created the Office of Nightlife. Berlin, a city known for its parties, has the Club Commission. And Seattle has seen a groundswell of support for music and the creative arts.

A black-and-white portrait of Mirik Milan, night mayor of Amsterdam.

Mirik Milan, night mayor of Amsterdam.

Lutz Leichsenring became the spokesperson for Berlin’s Club Commission 15 years ago when residential high-rise went up in existing club areas and residents were getting clubs shut down. The Commission lobbied for the rights of Berlin’s vast underground club scene. They also did the city a huge favour by collecting data on all the venues in Berlin, rating them on their space, the quality of content and if the venue was multi-use.

From the data came Berlin’s ‘Creative Footprint’, an initiative that measures and indexes urban creative space. The index encouraged clubs and districts to compete, to increase their ranking, but the data also influenced policy-makers on where, and how to invest.

“The Club Commission has 220 members,” Leichsenring told the Global Cities After Dark forum. “As a spokesman, I try and explain what we do to different stakeholder groups, and now I’m a member of the Music Board, a funded organisation that has 2 million a year to fund pop music in the city. I’m also now in the Chamber of Commerce. I started there a couple years ago as an exotic person amongst the airline companies and high industries, but today, 35 per cent of the tourists are coming to Berlin for the music and the nightlife. We have 35 million overnight stays per year, it’s a big number… Berlin is now the world’s third favourite destination after Paris and Rome.”

 

Kate Becker directs the Office of Film and Music in Seattle. In the early 90s, grunge might have put the artist town on the map, but there wasn’t much teen-spirit amongst city officials. Poster bans and repressive venue laws pushed partygoers underground, into unsafe spaces. When the city refused to talk to the night industry, “we started occupying the lobby outside city council,’ Becker says. “Holding dance parties there. We had people stand up in city council meetings and start playing music and young people would stand up and start dancing… We learnt how to influence politics.”

Night culture became an election issue, and by 2005 savvy politicians launched the Office of Film and Music, which Becker has directed since 2014. The city is now following through on a ten-year vision to grow night culture, looking at housing affordability, initiatives to employ musicians and equitable access to music education to invest in the next generation. “Political leaders cannot do this without the people who are part of this culture being at the table,” Becker says. “I can’t stress enough the importance of having a political advocate.”

Now, when you arrive at Seattle’s Sea-Tac Airport, an overhead service announcement voiced by Quincy Jones, or Jerry Cantrell of Alice in Chains, will tell you where you can pick up your bags, and Macklemore will direct you to where you can smoke. There are live music performances across the terminals and at Sub Pop Records, you can buy vinyl LPs. This is a city of music.

 

The Berlin and Seattle experiences both support Mirik Milan’s advice that ‘if you want to do this, it’s a long-term vision and can’t be politically or economically motivated.” He also argues that inclusive subculture is the best antidote to rising populism and right-wing ideology. “There’s way too much money being put into traditional art and culture that doesn’t create social or ethnic inclusion. If you spend, like in Amsterdam, 10 million euros only focussing on bottom-up initiatives instead of pouring it into the opera house, I’d say you’d actually have a better liveable city.”

The Global Cities After Dark Forum unanimously identified that bottom-up needs to be the top priority. Cities must identify and empower night-time creatives because they are the source, the present and the future of the city’s culture. Cities that are proactive, or creative, end up with the culture they deserve. What does Sydney want to be and whose vision will we get?

In October, Sydney Council released the discussion paper ‘An Open and Creative City.’ Key proposals are to let shops stay open until 10 pm, allow small-cultural events in existing buildings, protect music and performance venues and manage noise.

Their slightly garbled priority in ‘Open Sydney – Future Directions for Sydney at Night’ is to “work with Destination NSW Destination Dining Partnership to brand Sydney as the dining capital of the Asia-Pacific Region.” Those who perhaps don’t want international friends greeted at Mascot by Paleo Pete waving a duck sausage in one hand and a gastro map in the other might wish for a different vision. Updates as the discussion paper is reviewed and decisions are made is available at sydneyyoursay.com.au.

When NEIGHBOURHOOD asked Milan if he thinks Sydney needs a night mayor, he stressed you can’t sit back and passively await legislation. “You don’t start with installing a night mayor. You start with a conversation and I think Global Cities After Dark is a way to get this conversation going. But nightlife operators also have to take ownership themselves, because they sometimes look like surfers who are just interested in wanting to ride their own wave…

“if you want to have a better nightlife relationship with your city, get organised and be responsible and don’t just lean back and wait for the city to deal with the nightlife issues. You have to represent feasible strong ideas that can create better night life policy.”

Art’s Centre Cannot Hold The death of Birmingham Street Studios

Adam Norton works in a large blue brick industrial building along a road near a trendy bakery heralding gentrification’s arrival in Alexandria. He has been painting and making installations here most days, watched over by a shop dummy’s head and a wall photo of the father of modern computing, British mathematician Alan Turing.

Crunching numbers and creating art can be a difficult double act, however, when money dominates the bricks and mortar of an overpriced city.

Norton, 53, moved to Sydney 15 years ago from the UK and has had to rent 10 successive studios in that time; half of them ended with having to leave as the owner sold the building to a developer. He has paid $120 rent a week here at Birmingham Street, about half the going rate for an artist work space in inner-Sydney. “This has been a particularly good one,” he says, ruefully.

Until recently, this first floor space here in Sydney’s industrial inner-west has included two dozen fellow painters and sculptors who also made it their working base.

Operating for about eight years, the Birmingham Street Studios have had no hot water, tough for washing brushes and dishes, although plenty of rainwater could pour through a gaping roof hole, sometimes ruining artworks. But always, there was community, and artistic cross-pollination.

Gentrification this spring has blown the 25 artists far and wide, however. Birmingham Street Studios has died in its present, freewheeling form. The building, owned by Sydney entrepreneur Michael Dalah, who also runs a nearby catering company, had long been leased to artists, who in turn subdivided and sub-leased areas to more artists. Art Month Sydney touted it as “home to over 20 of Sydney’s most exciting artists” on an open day in March.

Dwindling space means subsidised studios are rare and low rents have all but evaporated in most Australian cities, according to an Australia Council research report. Only 17 percent of artists can afford to work full-time on their creative practice. Sydney extracts the toughest toll on artists, who if they can’t find inner-city space are anecdotally heading for the Blue Mountains, the Southern Highlands, coastal regions or interstate.

Norton is putting his art tools into storage to head to a California artist residency. He’s unsure where he’ll find space in Sydney when he returns, but in unconvinced by city council-backed, project-based artist residencies. “To develop as an artist, you need an ongoing stretch in a studio,” he says. “A ten-year stretch wouldn’t be abnormal in the rest of the world.”

Birmingham Street Studios: a warehouse space stretches from the foreground of the photo into the distance, with exposed beams visible near the ceiling.

The cavernous foyer of the former Birmingham Street Studios. Image credit: Lara Merrett.

By Christmas, the last of the artists here will have moved out to make way for Hub Furniture, a Melbourne-based company founded by Jaci Foti-Lowe, who has signed a 10-year lease and says about six artists will eventually be allowed to occupy a much smaller space on the ground level.

“It really distressed me knowing artists were going to be displaced,” says Foti-Lowe. “We were competing with other very commercial enterprises for the site … so while I felt really bad on the one hand, the best chance of any artists being supported on the site was with me.” She will give the handful of returning artists a 10-year lease, she says.

Owner Michael Dalah says part of Foti’s project is artistic and she will make the area “better than Danks Street [Waterloo], you watch”. He had a “good association” with the Birmingham Street Studios’ artists: “It’s the artists that made most of the money out of it rather than myself. I’m not an envious person. We just had to move on and make it more commercial.” Dalah says he had been “let down badly” by one person illegally living on site, setting off alarms at night.

Artist Alan Jones confirms a person had been living on site, but not, he says, an artist, nor invited in by the artists. Jones, 40, has taken up Foti-Lowe’s offer to move his studio back in, on a date to be determined: “It will be smaller and a different dynamic, but I think it will be really exciting.”

But many Birmingham Street artists have already jumped. Former leaseholder, Melbourne-born Lara Merrett, 46, for example, moved in October to an artist studio share warehouse in Parramatta Road, Stanmore, with former Birmingham Street artist colleagues Jonny Niesche, 45, John Nicholson, 47, and Lucas Davidson, 46. Matthew Bromhead, 33, has moved on his own to a shop front in Kensington. All are now paying more in rent.

Abdul Abdullah, 31, currently in Paris, emails that he is looking for Sydney space to accommodate himself and other artists from Birmingham Street, “the best working environment I ever had a set-up in”. It’s getting tougher for artists in Sydney, he says: “The rezoning around light industrial areas around the city means warehouse spaces ideal for art studios are becoming high-rent luxury apartments or furniture stores.” Abdullah declines to comment on talk he has lucked onto a possible art space in a building awaiting refurbishment in a year’s time.

Clara Adolphs, 31, retreated from Birmingham Street to her home in Bundanoon, in the Southern Highlands, and wonders if she will be able to afford studio space in Sydney again. Photographer artist Charles Dennington, 35, cleaning up at Birmingham Street on a recent Saturday, says he has a friend paying $250 a week to rent a very small apartment studio in William Street, Darlinghurst with a City of Sydney subsidy. “From the outside, it appears the council is doing a meaningful thing, but it falls short,” he says.

Dennington recalls he had a “fantastic” free, short-term residency in the Fraser Street Studios, Chippendale, a few years ago, in an area now called Spice Alley, next to the renovated and expensive Old Clare Hotel. “Once the artists have made the area a bit more chic they throw the artists out,” he says.

Perth-born Sarah Contos, 39, lives in Kings Cross but had to move from Birmingham Street in August to a more expensive studio space on her own at Ingleburn, 44 kilometres south-west of Sydney. She thinks as a “sprawler” artist whose work is “a bit sexy” she wouldn’t be a good fit with the coming commercial furniture outlet.

“All I know is I had to leave my community, and I’m an hour away from my studio,” she says of the daily drive. “It’s a massive loss. At Birmingham Street, coming in contact with artists you probably wouldn’t have otherwise come in contact with, I loved that.”

Farewell, Olympia Memories of a milkbar on Parramatta Road

“I am always drawn back to places where I have lived, the houses and their neighbourhoods,” states Truman Capote’s unnamed narrator in the opening pages of Breakfast at Tiffany’s. This seems an appropriate way to begin a love story, as there is a kind of romance to lingering on the doorstep of places where one used to live.

It’s like crossing paths with a lover from long ago – you still have these memories, but you can no longer access them. All traces of your touch have been painted over, the locks have been changed, the intimate turned foreign. And perhaps someone else is living there now, walking around in your what-could-have-been, making their own marks.

What are our cities and landscapes if not maps of memory and erasure – especially in Australia, where the original stories of the land have been written over, the narrative reframed. In walking the streets of our old neighbourhoods this becomes clear, as we see the double-exposure of the present and what we remember. Every house of the past is a haunted one.

 

For the first eight years of my life, I moved house once a year, sometimes twice, if both my mother and father decided to relocate. There is no single place that contains my childhood, but I can trace my early memories along the City Rail map of the Inner West line. Since they moved to Sydney – separately – when I was four, my parents continued to orbit one another across a series of inner-city suburbs.

My mother bought houses by railway lines on the outer-edges; my father shuffled in and out of rented homes. I learned to ground my memories in these places and track time through location. When I remember the warehouse in Newtown where I once watched a stranger’s hand reach between the bars of our open front window on Wilson Street and feel around blindly for something to steal, I know I must have been six, because my father lived there for one year in 1996. That year, my bedroom was up a spiral staircase in the former attic, and the sloped A-frame walls meant he had to stoop when he tucked me in at night. No matter what shape our rented houses took—a terrace or a bungalow or a flat above a shop – I learned that home was temporary, but the sense of it could be carried with you and re-made.

176 Parramatta Road was on the border of two suburbs. We lived on the Stanmore side, but across the four lanes of traffic was Annandale, a suburb of leafy streets and turreted houses I always imagined to be filled with ghosts and witches.

My father and his then-partner bought the property twenty years ago – it was the first and only place they’d own together – and the three of us moved in at the beginning of 1998. When I think of that house now, I picture its curious structure – what looked like a two-storey shop-front with an apartment above it was really two separate buildings, the top floors linked by an external wooden bridge. Below, an avocado tree grew out of the courtyard, its branches curving around the middle of the walkway, and in the six years we lived there it yielded only one black fruit. In memory, the place looks something like a child’s version of a castle – long and lopsided, rooms perched high above the traffic, the bridge in the middle sheltered by green leaves.

We painted the house in crazy colours. The outside of our shop, which would become Silicon Pulp, a short-lived animation gallery directed by my father and stepmother, was coated in pearlescent teal and deep purple. It is a different place now – long ago the sliding doors were replaced, the façade repainted in a neutral scheme, the gallery turned into the kitchen for a takeaway noodle shop. Still, of all the places I have lived, it’s the only place which remembers me and on which I’ve left a permanent mark: my childhood nickname, carved in wet cement by my father’s hand in the alleyway behind our house.

Olympia Milk Bar on Parramatta Road

Parramatta Road is notorious in Sydney for being the clogged artery that connects the Western suburbs to the heart of the city, a transitional space of car washes and dealerships and fast food restaurants, but for six years I called a part of it home. In 1998 our strip was white creampuff off-the-rack wedding dress shops next to the red-dressed windows of brothels named only by the building number, a Shell petrol station opposite an Italian motor scooter dealer, a discount retailer for stockings, a wine store and a bank and a newsagency, a Franklins that became an IGA, and an old sandwich shop that sold hot chips wrapped in butchers paper and sprinkled with vinegar. We lived in the same block as the Stanmore Twin, a picture theatre locals called “The Globe” that played double features on Sundays, and just a few doors down from the iconic Olympia Milkbar.

While the cinema was razed in 2000 to make way for new apartments, the Olympia outlived most businesses on that strip until last week, when it was forced to close by the Inner West Council until extensive repairs are made to the crumbling foundations. Since the shop has existed in a state of increasing disrepair as long as I can remember, these renovations seem unlikely.

From the outside, the milkbar always appeared abandoned. Inside, it was like a decaying museum of another era. It could have been the last diner on earth, complete with decades-old, peeling Formica tables and a greasy metal countertop. Dust and grime from Parramatta Road had faded the original art Deco design that spelled out OLYMPIA in the terrazzo floor, and down the back, beneath the single bulb that was used to light the place only at night, a burned-out neon sign read: “Late suppers, steak, sandwiches, snack bar.” From the run-down exterior many passersby would assume the shop was closed if they weren’t familiar with the myths that surrounded it.

Every childhood deserves a Boo Radley house and the Olympia Milkbar was mine, although I didn’t realize it even had a name until years later when I recognised a description of the place in one of Vanessa Berry’s early zines. My family called it, somewhat affectionately, “Zombie’s,” after the strange and reticent owner. With his grey pallor, black eyes and white hair, he looked undead or at least well over one hundred in my child eyes, though he would have only been in his sixties at the time.

Over the years, we imagined him, variously, as a living ghost or a vampire, for the way he seemed to materialise out of the dark while you stood waiting at the counter, only to realise he’d been lurking in the shadows the entire time. He seemed to float an inch above the floor, and I never remember him speaking except in a low, creaking groan. Another friend of mine who grew up in Annandale remembers the Olympia as “The Dark Place” where her and her brother bought candy bars that turned to dust in their mouths. On extensive Reddit forums and Facebook groups, I’ve seen it referred to by others as “The Haunted Milkbar,” the owner nicknamed “Drac” or “Dr. Death”.

Little is known about Nicholas Fotiou, who is still notoriously private, except that he was part of a generation of Greek immigrants who bought American soda pop culture to Australia in the more wholesome and calcium-rich form of the milkbar. According to historical records reported in the Sydney Morning Herald, he emigrated from the island of Lemnos in the 1950s and purchased The Olympia with his late brother John, who died in the 1980s. In one version of the story, the shop was preserved as it was then, in memory of the lost sibling. Another version speaks of a feud between the brothers, the business left open but never maintained in an act of bitterness and spite.

Other rumours persisted. The Olympia kept strangely long hours for a place that seemed to have so few customers – possibly a hangover from the days when it was connected to the movie theatre by a window cut into the wall—and this lead to speculation the milkbar actually served as a drug-front. There were whispers of a wife who used to run a hair salon above the shop, of children who had died in an accident. Over the years, gothic scenarios were invented, The Olympia becoming the imaginary setting for something like an Inner West version of Faulkner’s ‘A Rose for Emily’, featuring the decaying corpse of a mother or bride hidden away upstairs.

My friends and I thought up more childish stories about how the owner slept in a crypt and roamed the neighbourhood late at night, and dared each other to peek over the back fence in Corunna Lane to see what bones or relics he might be keeping in his yard. If this seems cruel, I hadn’t yet learned the lesson of Boo Radley – that these characters we conjure out of figures from our childhood are actually just people, and perhaps they would tell different stories about themselves if given the chance.

 

Parramatta Road has always existed in a state of flux, and the history of the Olympia Milkbar dates back to the development of commercial and leisure activity along the strip. In 1912, the building functioned as a billiard room associated with the skating-rink next door, which became the picture theatre in 1939 as recreational culture began to change. Before that, the area was known as Annandale Farm – 100 acres stolen from the original owners of the land, the Cadigal and Wangal clans of the coastal Eora people, and claimed by Captain George Johnston in 1793 who tried to graft English pastoralism onto Aboriginal land.

During the years The Globe was open, The Olympia functioned as a kind of candy bar annex, where people would go for milkshakes before the show. Inside it was always cool, dark and dusty, but after the cinema closed, it gradually grew more decrepit. I waited for the bus outside the store and by the time I was in high school, one of the shop windows was permanently broken, cutting a jagged shape that was only sometimes taped over with paper.

Since my father worked with stained glass during his day job making leadlight windows, he offered to repair the damage as a gesture of goodwill but his generosity was rebuked. We had always assumed the owner was poor and struggling to turn a profit since the movie theatre had shut down, and were surprised to learn later that he owned many other properties in the neighbourhood.

Even though we lived across from a supermarket and down the block from a 24-hour petrol station, my father and I often went into the Olympia to buy our after dinner treat. I remember blocks of dark Old Gold, mottled with white from where the chocolate had melted and re-set. For a long time I thought this was my father’s way of trying to keep the shop in business. It never occurred to me that the Olympia was a crumbling relic of his own boyhood growing up further down Parramatta Road in Ashfield in a small house with his mother, sister, grandparents, uncle and aunt all under one roof. My father would visit the milkbar after school as a student of Fort Street Boys, until he was kicked out for, among other things, having hair that was too long. Even back then, the business was beginning its slow decline.

The name Olympia refers to the mountain Olympus, the home of the gods in ancient mythology. In Greek, too, one can find the etymological root of nostalgia, the feeling I’ve been trying to describe. It originated from two separate words: Algia, pain, and nostos, return home.

Though it was twenty years ago that my family moved into the house on Parramatta Road and painted the front a seasick combination of purple and teal and since then I have lived in many other places that I’ve come to call home, crossed oceans, married, it is the closing of the Olympia that feels like the final curtain call on my childhood. All that remains is my name in cement. The rest is dust.

Horses, Trolls and Hammers Improv theatre with the Bear Pack

With no script and no preparation, Bear Pack comedians Carlo Ritchie and Steen Raskopoulos take two suggestions from the audience – an item and a location – and improvise an hour-long story.

When I meet the pair one morning at Scout’s Honour Cafe in Redfern, Ritchie tells me, “It’s always fun at festivals because some people don’t believe that it’s different every time. So they come a few nights in a row just to see if there are things that happen twice.”

I’ve seen their Bear Pack show more than twice, and it’s still difficult to believe that the plots and dozens of characters are invented on the spot. Surely they rehearse?

Raskopoulos pinches his thumb and finger together into an O: “Zero.”

Ritchie (thin, moustached): “Yeah, we don’t rehearse. I always say that if the show we did was planned, it’s terrible planning.”

Raskopoulos (taller, curly hair) laughs.

The pair have come to be known as Australia’s best improvisers. I tell them I remember the show they did at the Enmore last year, where there was a subplot about an ineffective bridge-troll, who, by the end of the show, had to tell his troll-family they were being evicted from under the bridge because he couldn’t pay the rent.

Both smile, as if hearing about it for the first time.

The secret, they say, is that there’s no secret. Improv theatre is a process of constant reaction – just like a good conversation, but with shifting characters.

Raskopoulos emphasises the absolute trust between the pair; Ritchie calls the process “kind of like waking up, really… sparking”. Their show operates in a highwire mental state almost beyond conscious thought – to the point where they say it can be difficult to remember the show even minutes after it ends.

“Sometimes we’ll come off stage,” Ritchie says, “and I’ll be like, Oh man, you really cracked me up tonight! And Steen’s like, Which bit? And I’m like, I can’t remember man…”

Raskopoulos: “There’s a thing where people come up to you and say, I saw the one where you played a guy, and you got on a horse… And that’s like every fifth show, man.”

Ritche: “There are only so many ways to travel.”

Carlo Ritchie and Steen Raskopoulos posing on stage, in suits.

The Bear Pack: Carlo Ritchie, left, and Steen Raskopoulos, right, performing at the Giant Dwarf in Redfern.

Raskopoulos and Ritchie first performed together in 2009 at a locally famous improv night at the old Roxbury Hotel in Glebe. Raskopoulos had met Ritchie at Sydney Uni, and taught him improv. “And I’d call him little bear and he’d call me big bear,” Raskopoulos says – hence, the Bear Pack.

At this point Ritchie breaks in: “I wanted to call it the Hammer Hour, but it just never got off the ground….”

Why the Hammer Hour?

Ritchie: “Um, there are no hammers in the show – we have a strict no-hammer policy on stage, so it was kind of a dumb name really, but I tried really hard. We had some test groups, it didn’t play well with the test groups, yeah… But, you know, that’s life sometimes, you just gotta go with the punches.”

In 2011 the pair started a comedy night at Hermann’s Bar, and began performing in their current format of a fully improvised story – what they call a yarn. They moved the show to a bigger stage – the Chaser’s Giant Dwarf Theatre, on Cleveland Street in Redfern – and added a third member, cellist Ange Lavoipierre, who improvises a soundtrack for each show. Since then they’ve taken their show to festivals around the world, and last year sold 1,200 tickets when they played the Enmore Theatre.

Improv is designed to look seamless, but, like all skills, it can be learnt with effort. Three years ago Ritchie and Raskopoulos founded Sydney’s Improv Theatre School. As with their show, the growth of the school was exponential: from 16 in their first class to over 200 current enrolments today.

For the first time since sitting down Raskopoulos gets a tiny bit shy, and I hear the word “proud”. Ritchie talks about how, before their school, he could have named every improviser in Sydney: “And then that very first time we had a [class graduate from the school], I just thought, Jesus, all of a sudden there are 20 new improvisers. And now there’s, like, a hundred new improvisers every three months, it’s just crazy…”

Raskopoulos: “Yeah…”

Ritchie: “… it’s wild.”

Raskopoulos: “We get all different walks of life. We get lawyers and doctors and–”

Ritchie: “Carpenters, midwives–”

Raskopoulos: “Business types who just want to get more confident, wanna get better with their social skills.”

When I tell them that they’ve given me more than enough to write about, and that my piece can only be 800 words, Ritchie widens his eyes, incredulous, and Raskopoulos joins in a second later.

Ritchie: Well, you’d better double that–”

Raskopoulos: “And then halve it again.”

 

Carlo Ritchie of The Bear Pack will be performing with special guests at the Art Gallery of NSW’s Art After Hours throughout January, on Wednesdays (10th, 17th, 24th, 31st) at 6:30pm. Entry is free, and no bookings are required. More information here.

Newtown’s Best Variety Act Behind the scenes at Clem’s Chicken Shop

In 1982, Despina and Clem Tsakalides opened Clem’s Chicken Shop in Newtown.

Their single-mindedness and dedication was hard to ignore, recalls their son Spiro. “We say to ourselves if we worked – if my brother and I and my sister worked exactly the same way they did – we’d all be divorced,” he says with a laugh.

Spiro was 19 when his parents first started filling the rotisseries with spice-basted barbecue chicken – but he wasn’t exactly a slacker. Sometimes he’d end up crashing behind the shop – on two planks of wood in the garage – because it was so late and it was too tiring to travel back to their home in Punchbowl. Once, he woke up to a flood of water, pouring from the residence upstairs – the occupants had forgotten to turn off their bathroom taps.

His brother Peter was only eight years old when the store opened, so his duties were minimal. But his sister, Barbara, aged 12, would arrive from school – and start serving customers straight away, even if she was too short to address them. “I’d stand on a milk crate and say, ‘who’s next, please?’”

Newtown was “a no-go zone” at the time, Barbara says. “I remember Peter once walking to school and he got rolled for his shoes.”

Of course, a lot has changed in the area over 35 years – but memories of their many customers still endure. There was Mustafa, known locally as ‘the butcher’ because of his blood-stained white apron and wild stare, who’d aggressively stop buses in the middle of King Street and demand free travel, then strut back down to do the whole trip again, terrifying pedestrians in his way. But when he saw their mother working by herself – while minding the children at the back of the store – he’d enter and, unprompted, assist her by filling the fridge.

Aboriginal activist Mum Shirl would come in, says Spiro, “asking dad if he could help, because she was going to take some chickens to the brothers who were in the jails”. His father was only too willing. “Dad understood what it was like, to be on the wrong side of favour.” (Decades earlier, when Clem was severely sick in a hospital in Kavala, Greece, two strangers intervened to save his life: a doctor who prescribed medicine that wasn’t freely available and a merchant who helped pay for it.)

Barbara says, “Arthur, my husband, told me this story about the first time he met my father. Someone grabbed a drink out of the fridge and started running out. Arthur started to go after him – and my dad put his hand on his shoulder and said, ‘He needs it more than we do, don’t worry about it.’”

The chicken shop’s customers have ranged from performer Carlotta, one of the inspirations for Priscilla: Queen of the Desert, to Yanis Varoufakis, whose 14-year spell as a Sydney University economics lecturer was followed by a brief stint as Greece’s Minister of Finance in 2015 (he famously rode off on his motorbike after dramatically quitting the government post). Varoufakis was searching for pastitio, moussaka and other Greek food – but ended up having long philosophical conversations with Clem. “It didn’t matter how busy the shop was,” says Spiro. Clem always had a weakness for getting deep into politics or other serious issues, even if it meant ignoring the shop’s growing queue.

Peter Jensen, the Anglican Archbishop of Sydney from 2001 to 2013, was another regular visitor. Saturday night was “Clem’s night” for the Archbishop’s family. “And when dad was dying, Dr Jensen came to the hospital to read him his last rites,” says Spiro.

If you walk into Clem’s today, you might see Spiro or his brother Peter serving customers. The counter still features dishes (coleslaw, Greek salad, potato salad) made to their mother Despina’s original recipes. But nowadays, no one has to sleep on wood planks in the garage to keep Clem’s running.

 

Clem’s Chicken, 210 King Street, Newtown. Hours 9am-10pm, 7 days a week. Phone: (02) 9519 6000. Full menu and catering details here: www.clemschickenshop.com.au

My Night in the Bush of Dog Ghosts Going camping with man’s best friend

Camping is a peculiar idea.

All our lives – and the city itself – are monuments to our desire to outfox the elements, our very walls and fences and convection ovens paid for by years of toil. And then, to “get away from it all”, to “take a break” from the comfort that crushes us to death, we go out into the wilderness without any of those things, returning to our homes “refreshed”. How weird.

Another strange idea of ours is the keeping of pets – fierce animals brought to heel, like walking symbols of our triumph over the wild. Those who claim to own dogs because they wanted to give them “good homes” should ask themselves why they didn’t rescue a homeless derelict or street kid instead. The answer will be that dogs aren’t so smart as to know they deserve better than a life viewed through metal bars and walks on the end of a chain.

This week I combined these two oddball pursuits by taking my dog, Tess (a little Jack Russell/Chihuahua cross) for a sleepout in the desert, to an uncelebrated patch of red earth and saltbush in outback New South Wales. All we had was a bag and the tools for a fire. This evening would be as rough as it gets.

The night had a purpose; it was a funeral, really – a sleeping wake – for another dog who’d passed away, and was buried at this spot.

Laurel was a Jack Russell too, but purebred. He lived at a place called Mulberry Vale, about five miles out of Broken Hill. Mulberry Vale is an old sheep station that now is a place you can stay – very authentic, if you want that kind of thing.

All the dogs at Mulberry Vale have been rescued from death: Dakota, the fat black Staffy; Ripley, the powerful Rhodesian ridgeback; and the three little ones. I often wonder if they realise the jackpot they scored when they cheated the dog-pound guillotine for a wide-open life with no fences and a big blue sky. Laurel was one of the lucky ones.

He came to Mulberry Vale as a puppy in 2000. A millennium dog. He lived through 9/11 and the rise of social media, but he didn’t really care for any of that. He outlived a half-a-dozen dogs that were buried at the very spot where Tess and I would sleep. A pet cemetery.

 

By the time I met Laurel in 2012 he was getting on, a sharp old dog who was king of the pack. The others curtsied to his intelligence. He used to run out into the night, barking, so that the others would follow. Then he’d creep back in to take the spot that another had held – a chair, a cherished place in front of the fire. He was smart and manipulative. I liked that about him.

He didn’t like to be touched. This was a strange thing that I understood and respected. He craved closeness but never liked affection. It was queer. In the times when John and Pam would ask me to look after Mulberry Vale in their absence, Laurel would follow me everywhere – seemed to need my presence – but reacted angrily to my touch. He bit me once when I got too cosy. He seemed anxious, bothered, but willing to work. Pam told me he’d been like that all his life. Like so many of us, he had a problem with intimacy.

But he stayed by me like a bodyguard. When I went through the midnight horrors – the end of a 14-day bender after my divorce – it was Laurel who hung on when the other dogs fled, my weeping and twitching too much for them. “I’m here,” he seemed to say, “but don’t get the wrong idea – touch me and you’re dead!” He saw me through.

Of course, he got old. I watched him crumble, start walking into walls, getting thin, looking at me like he was lost. Sometimes I had to press food into his mouth to remind him he had to eat to survive. He was losing his way.

Some weeks ago, on a night like this, he just wandered off. We searched and searched but were never relieved. Then a visiting couple with bloodhounds set them loose and they found him, way out in the desert, dead and alone.

And that is the place where Tess and I slept last night. No phones, no internet, no news of Malcolm or Trump or Louis CK yanking his baloney. Just us, by Laurel’s grave, with the rest of the world a long way away. John had made a little tin plaque, slung between two posts. It told of a dog that was never quite at peace.

 

I lit a fire and we bedded down to the speckled ink of the sky and the wind in the mulga, a sound just like the seaside makes. There were things that scuttled – lizards and such – but none of them really cared about us. That’s something you learn when you live out here – the snakes, spiders and wild dogs of our nightmares are less interested in us than we are in them. They know no evil.

I seem to remember I dreamed of a pack of dogs, all unknown to me, and awoke three times through the night.

The first time, something big fossicking in the saltbush stirred me – maybe a fox, or a feral cat. It didn’t have the thump that a kangaroo makes, or the tense creep of the emu. Tess stayed in the bag, figured I’d sort it out.

The second time it was the wind that woke me, blowing hard and making the fire rage, and Laurel’s little plaque swing and squeak back and forth. I watched the flames for a while, mesmerized, then went back to sleep.

The third time saw the sun rising over the outback, the saltbush, the red dirt, and the fantasia sky of pink and yellow and blue the dead never see. We really should love this whenever we can. It’s holy and beautiful. If it happened but once – if it wasn’t what we knew every day – we’d declare it a miracle.

To the searing sun and the dreadful tune of a thirsty crow – a sound like a creaky door opening slowly – we soiled the fire and packed up our things, the roar of the engine in my station wagon an unwelcome return to the land of the living. We’d said our goodbye to Laurel, who was now, and forever, impossible to touch.

Some say that dogs don’t know sentimentality, or the love we feel, or the intelligence with which we bless ourselves alone.

I would like to ask them: why did Laurel, demented and dying, walk a mile to lay down and close his eyes on the very same place on the earth where all his friends were buried?

Paul McCartney Essential Tracks

 

 

Read novelist James Bradley’s reevaluation of Paul McCartney and his work.

Wheelchair Music A playlist from Jim Moginie of Midnight Oil

I’d like to thank everyone who has come to my aid after my ill judged bit of Irish dancing at Sidney Myer Music Bowl on the evening of November 8, resulting in a nasty hamstring injury. All meaning I’m wheelchair bound for the duration.

Much has been written about it in the media so I don’t want to add to it, but I do want to thank the ambos, St. John’s mob, the hospital staff at Epworth Richmond, my family, the band, the crew, management and all the fans here and worldwide for their huge love and support. My stay in the wheelchair is likely to be temporary – however the experience has been completely overwhelming.

People look at you differently when you’re in the chair. As a result, I’ve gained a new appreciation for people in wheelchairs or with any disability for that matter, and what it takes to operate in this crazy world of ours from their perspective.

We sentient walkers take a lot for granted. In honour of these souls I’ve taken the liberty of putting together a Spotify playlist of musicians I love and admire who operate (or operated) from a wheelchair, including Jeff St John, Robert Wyatt, Jim Conway and the songwriter Doc Pomus amongst others. I’ve no doubt unintentionally left some out as well.

Love
Jim

P.S. Everyone would like to be known for their music and not defined by or singled out for their disability, so I hope this is taken in the right spirit. The extra effort and support needed to operate make these artists and their people very determined and extraordinary individuals.

[Scroll below the playlist for Jim’s notes on each of the artists.]

 

Jeff St John I remember from growing up in Sydney in the 70s. He was born with spina bifida. A real showman with a bluesy voice, often doing wheel stands in his wheelchair, he was a stalwart of early Australian radio and live performance. He is involved in educating people about disabilities and is a member of spina bifida support group MOSAIC.

Robert Wyatt emerged from England’s Canterbury scene with Soft Machine and Matching Mole as a brilliant drummer and singer. He fell from a balcony in 1973 resulting in paralysis from the waist down. Undaunted, he began to then concentrate on his singing and keyboard playing whilst still playing some top end jazz influenced percussion. He soon released his solo album Rock Bottom and since the accident become a prolific solo artist and an articulate and much loved collaborator and member of the British rock scene.

Doc Pomus (born Jerome Solon Felder) was a polio victim. He started as a blues singer in the 1940’s performing with the likes of King Curtis and Mickey Baker, and then fell into a successful songwriting partnership with Mort Schuman. Their collaboration produced many hits including ‘Surrender’ for Elvis Presley, ‘Can’t Get Used To Losing You’ for Andy Williams and ‘Lonely Avenue’ for Ray Charles. Their most beautiful song was ‘Save The Last Dance for Me’, which has a lyric inspired by Doc’s wedding night (according to his friend Lou Reed) where the wheelchair-bound Pomus watched his wife, Broadway dancer Willi Burke, dance with their guests. The song reminds her to have fun, but reminds her who is going to take her home and “in whose arms you’re gonna be”.

Justin Hines is a Canadian born singer songwriter from Ontario. He has a rare condition called Larsen’s syndrome which leaves him wheelchair bound, and has started an eponymous foundation for people with disabilities.

Jim Conway is a singer and harmonica player who with his brother Mick Conway formed The Captain Matchbox Whoopee Band with whom Midnight Oil supported many times in the 1970s. He was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis in 1983. A well loved Sydney based harmonica teacher, session player and performer, Jim has performed with Backsliders, Shane Howard, Slim Dusty, Colin Hay amongst countless others.

White Room from Melbourne were led by Marc Collis, who suffers from brittle bone disease confining him to a wheelchair. Their album White Room Music was produced by Phil Mackellar (Grinspoon, Silverchair). He is now a solo artist and has recently supported John Farnham.

Staff Benda Bilili started as street musicians from the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The core of the band is four singer/guitar players, paraplegic as a result of polio when they were young, playing in the soukous (Congolese rumba)style. They come from the area around the zoo in the city of Kinshasa, and move around in specially designed tricycles. They are backed by a younger rhythm section of street children taken under the protection of the older members of the band. Their name roughly translates as ‘look beyond appearances’.

Itzhak Perlman is an Israeli violinist who records for label Deutsche Gramophon and debuted at Carnegie Hall in 1963. Contracting polio when he was 4, he learnt to walk with crutches and uses an electric scooter for mobility. He has performed for Queen Elizabeth at the White House, conducted many orchestras and in 2015 was awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom.

Vic Chestnutt was a singer songwriter from Athens Georgia. He released 17 albums during his career including 2 produced by Michael Stipe. He was injured in a car crash in 1983 and used a wheelchair and had limited use of his hands. His style has been described as “skewed, refracted version of Americana that is haunting, funny, poignant, and occasionally mystical, usually all at once” (Bryan Carroll, altmusic.com)

Gaelynn Lea from Duluth Minnesota is a folk, bluegrass and celtic violinist and singer. Born with a genetic condition that causes complications in the development of bones and limbs, and passionate about music from an early age, she developed a technique for playing the violin by holding the bow like a ‘baseball bat’ with instrument placed in front of her like a cello. A political advocate as well, she won NPR’s Tiny Desk Contest In 2016, selected over six thousand other nominations, her sound being described as ‘a cross between Karen Dalton and Joanna Newsom’ by Dan Auberbach.

Maria Gombitova came from Slovakia and gain notoriety as singer with the band Modus. She took to a solo career but before the release of her second album she was involved in a car crash which has meant her life is now spent in a wheelchair. She is regarded as one of the most successful acts in Slovak history having six out of nine albums included in the Top 100 Greatest Slovak Albums of All time list and her work remains a radio favourite in the region.

Teddy Pendergrass came to fame as singer of Harold Melvin and The Blue Notes before a hugely successful solo career as an R&B artist. In 1982 he was paralysed in an auto accident from the chest down. He subsequently founded the Teddy Pendergrass Alliance that helps those with spinal cord injuries.

Curtis Mayfield: Shooting to fame in the early 70s with his album Superfly, a gritty and political view of life on the streets and leading light of the blaxploitation movement, Mayfield was paralysed from the neck down after lighting equipment fell on him during a live performance at Wingate Field in Flatbush, Brooklyn, New York, on August 13, 1990. Despite this, he continued his career as a recording artist, releasing his final album New World Order in 1996. Mayfield won a Grammy Legend Award in 1994 and a Grammy Lifetime Achievement Award in 1995, and was a double inductee into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, as a member of the Impressions in 1991, and again in 1999 as a solo artist.

Finding beauty in the bleakest of places A conversation with Moo Baulch about women, men and domestic violence

The inner Sydney office of the CEO of Domestic Violence NSW, Moo Baulch, is a place of such light and peace it seems at odds with our meeting’s purpose. Until construction noise breaks the calm. The previous week had been a horror one for domestic violence in NSW. Three women in their 30s killed by their intimate partners (or former partners) in just four days. Stabbing, strangulation and hammer attacks variously ended those three lives, taking the estimated national domestic violence death toll to 38 for the year.

In every case Baulch knows there would have been a long history and pattern of “power, control and psychological stuff”. The protracted lead-ups to such deaths are part of what she calls “the continuum of domestic violence”.

It’s an epidemic that far exceeds our country’s death tolls from terrorism or one punch attacks, she points out. Yet it fails to motivate our crackdown-happy legislators as much. This is despite an Australian Bureau of Statistics personal safety study which shows that one in three Australian women experience physical violence in their lifetime, one in four of them from a partner or ex-partner. On average, one woman a week is killed by a partner or ex-partner.

In the bleak landscape of domestic violence, any mention of the word ‘beautiful’ could seem like a black joke. So I am surprised when Baulch uses it. Her words are slow, steady and perfectly modulated. “There’s certainly unprecedented awareness around domestic and family violence,” she says. “Big corporations are having conversations about it as a workplace issue. The Commonwealth Bank has just worked with us on the issue of financial abuse.

“Five years ago, there was very little interest. But you’ve got this beautiful level of awareness now. You’ve got the impact of Rosie Batty and other advocates speaking out very strongly trying to remove the shame and the stigma of speaking out.”

There’s a disarming sense of calm and inner grace to Baulch – the very opposite of violence – manifested in a quiet yet powerful presence, as she fights what can only be described as a world of horror. On each of the three occasions I’ve been in a room with her over the last year this same subtle strength has equalled if not exceeded that of the prominent business and legal figures we’ve been among, and whose respect she has earned.

Baulch came to Domestic Violence NSW after studying in Queensland, having moved there from the UK in her twenties. While doing her Masters degree in peace, reconciliation and historical memory regarding the Stolen Generations, she became involved in addressing domestic violence within the Lesbian Gay Bisexual Transgender, Intersex and Queer (LGBTIQ) community. Because LGBTIQ people are often marginalised already, there is a reluctance to report domestic violence incidents. “One third of gay men and lesbians experience domestic violence and there is a lot of shame associated with it.” Baulch says, “With all the debate and publicity about gay marriage, the last thing we want to talk about is that our relationships may be abusive.”

Perhaps due to her academic background and interest in historical memory, Baulch thinks a lot about turning points. In terms of Australia’s domestic violence consciousness, the 2011 murder of Lisa Harnum was one of them. Harnum’s fiancé threw her off the balcony of an expensive apartment overlooking Sydney’s Hyde Park. “The nation was gripped by this story,” says Baulch. “This woman was bright, she was bubbly, she was beautiful. She was living a fairly affluent lifestyle in an amazing apartment. It was a different story for the media. It wasn’t the stereotype.”

Through the court case, the media showed there was a really long period of control leading up to Harnum’s death. “Domestic violence is not just about homicides, broken bones and bruises. He had been stalking her for a long time. He had been tracking her emails, had installed cameras in her apartment, stopped her from going to work. She went from being this really bubbly person to not being able to wear makeup, having to dress down so that other men didn’t find her attractive.”

Baulch watched the case create a new awareness among the general public. But a cautious optimism is quickly tempered by what she says is “an incredible amount of victim-blaming still. Why doesn’t she leave? There is a perception at the community level that there are places to go, that it’s easy to get into a refuge. If this relationship is as awful as she says it is, why doesn’t she just go?”

The reality, says Baulch, is that leaving is an incredibly difficult thing for a woman to do on a range of practical levels. “We are in the midst of an affordable housing crisis, not just in Sydney but in other parts of the state as well. If you have been in an abusive relationship for some time you may be being financially controlled, you may not have access to your bank accounts or financial resources.”

Baulch is at pains to point out domestic and family violence goes across all socio-demographics. “We’re not just talking about people living on the edge. We are also talking about people who might be living in multi-million dollar houses with five cars. Their partner is controlling all the finances that come in. They’ve been prevented from going to work.”

Baulch has a shaved head and wears a black shirt and pants, with a black blazer.

Photography by Matthew Abbott / Oculi.

It’s just one year but it now seems an age since Malcolm Turnbull’s 2016 COAG National Summit on Reducing Violence Against Women. Baulch will spend the hours after our interview writing a submission to a Senate Inquiry on the 24/7 1800RESPECT trauma specialist service that has more than 100,000 users and for which funding cuts have been announced. The essence of the service’s success to date was that it was staffed by 80 domestic violence-trained professionals capable of tailored frontline responses. Repeat callers – some having up to 50 conversations – got deep and relevant support depending on which crisis stage they were at.

1800RESPECT now seems set to be reduced to a mere information referral function. Baulch’s understated but evident disappointment over the substantial dismantling of something that actually worked is the lot of someone in a role like hers. How frustrating it must be to know the research, to know that certain things make a positive difference and to see them fall prey to economic hardheads and short termism of the sort that costs more money – and lives – in the end.

“The system has failed women, children and men over a series of decades,” says Baulch. “There’s not enough investment in prevention and early intervention and efforts are not coordinated.”

I ask whether Australia fares better or worse than comparable nations in terms of domestic violence. In some ways, Baulch says we are actually leading in terms of individual initiatives like ‘Our Watch’ (an excellent, government funded information and education hub). “But we have a lot of soul searching to do as a nation. We have not only built our country on quite horrific violence, what some would call genocide, the systematic repression of the other. We are still struggling with what gender equality might look like in Australia and for that to be a thing that doesn’t have to threaten men.”

The majority of domestic violence perpetrators, says Baulch, are our sons, fathers and uncles. She says everyone, men included, needs to be part of this conversation and to challenge the attitudes that underpin all violence. “If 17 men were being killed each year [from one punch attacks] in Kings Cross, we’d be declaring martial law, a national emergency. The public will swallow 14 days of detention for a terrorism suspect. But when it comes to domestic violence, we can have three or four murders in a week and our political leaders might not even mention it.”

 

Expression: “No One Has Ever Seen God” – fast fiction by Margaret Barbalet

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